Ridiculously good chard tart
Thaw a package of puff pastry. More power to you if you make your own. Puff pastry is so labor intensive, however, that even the most ambitious cooks typically buy it, like phyllo dough.
Chop a pile of chard. Oh—that sounds so brute! considering the chard we had in hand this November. After the bunch was rinsed, I held a leaf up like an X-ray, a stained glass, to the window, and with the sunlight shining through, it was a cartooned tree of tall, cumulous shape in sea-vegetable Green with Fuschia branches, pink veins edged in lit white. Layer the leaves on top of each other and roll like a cigar, slice from the end to your fingers to make long shreds. Then slice across these shreds to make bite sized pieces.
Peel and chop two shallots. Toast a handful of pine nuts in a dry skillet. Zest a lemon (again – organic, the peel!). Hold these ingredients in little bowls or dishes until you are ready to incorporate them into the dish.
Heat your oven to 375º. Heat a shallow skillet over medium heat to cook your greens. Melt about a tablespoon of butter and toss in the shallots. Let the shallots cook for a few minutes (3-ish) and then toss the shard over it along with half the lemon zest. Cook the greens down, stirring occasionally. About 10 minutes total. Let sit in the pan with the heat off.
Stir together ½ a cup of Greek yoghurt and ½ a cup of feta cheese along with the remaining lemon zest.
Crush ¾ of the pine nuts in whatever way is easiest in your kitchen. I crush them on a cutting board with a wine bottle, not rolling pin style but screwing and crushing with the round bottom. Stir the crushed pine nuts into the greens along with a handful of currants.
On a cookie sheet, layout a full sheet of puff pastry and turn up the edges all the way around to make a crust. Pinch over about a quarter inch and use your fingertips to squish the folded over edge into the main body of the dough. Spread the feta and yoghurt along the pastry. Spread the chard mixture on top of the creamy layer. Sprinkle with more feta and the whole pine nuts. Bake at 375º for 15-20 minutes or until the puff pastry is golden. Let rest for 10 minutes or so, slice into squares, and serve hot.
summer strudel
this basil – in bloom – and veggies from the farmers’ market wrapped up with cheese in phyllo dough
don’t fear the strudel – it is just like a fancy burrito.
heat your oven to 375º and line a cookie sheet with parchment paper – especially if you want to make the strudel and refrigerate it to cook later – or grease it lightly with butter.
Thaw a package of phyllo dough. You are only going to use three sheets so if you are not interested in trying some other phyllo recipes you can make this filling and use it in tortillas like a quesadilla or as a layered frittata. Anyway, onward-
prep your veggies. Scrub clean, leave the skins on, and slice thin:
1 small summer squash. Slice your squash very fine, so you have thin circles edged in green. If it is short and squat rather than long like zucchini, then cut it in half then slice. The one I took home from the farmers’ market was the size of a tennis ball, gum drop shaped, and green with white speckles.
5 new red potatoes, about the size of ping pong balls. Slice them very fine, so you have thin circles edged in red.
peel and slice:
½ of a sweet yellow onion
melt 4 tablespoons (half stick) or so of butter or olive oil in a hot skillet. Pour off all but a table spoon into a cup to use with the pastry later. In the remainder, fry the onion and potatoes until the onions are translucent and the potatoes just begin to brown – about 10 minutes over a medium high flame. Every few minutes, turn them carefully with a fork; the potatoes this thin are delicate.
in a medium sized bowl, mash together with a fork:
1 cup pre-cooked cannelloni beans, tossed with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and
¾ cup fresh soft cheese. Sounds vague, but the label on the tub from the upstate organic, humane dairy says “fresh soft cheese” so I don’t know what else to tell you. Whatever local, happy white soft cheese you can get will be delicious.
pick a handful of fresh basil leaves. I ended up with about a half cup of shredded basil – suit yourself. Pick the leaves, and layer them, staggered side by side to make a wide stack, then roll them up like a cigar. Slice along the circular end to make fine shreds. Stir into the beans and cheese, along with:
¼ cup or more fresh sweet peas.
unroll your phyllo dough on a cutting board, and lift one sheet to your paper-lined baking tray. Brush lightly with butter, layer another sheet, brush with butter, third sheet, butter. Drop several tablespoons of the cheese filling onto the stack of phyllo, making a rectangle of filling with an inch of pastry above and below and two inches to its right. Layer slices of squash over the filling then add a bit more cheese & beans. Layer the potatoes and onions over that and a little more cheese and bean. You’ll have more filling than you need. Fold the two inches of pastry to the right over the filling then fold over the top and bottom pastry margin. Using the parchment paper to help you, fold the strudel over and possible over again to seal. Brush the entire outside with melted butter. Slash diagonal cuts across the top.
store in the refrigerator until ready to use (even over night) or bake immediately for about half an hour or until the outside is golden brown.
You can make this recipe vegan by making sure you use vegan phyllo, subbing olive oil for the butter, omitting the cheese entirely, and mashing the beans more thoroughly. Try adding tofutti sour supreme or tahini to make it creamier. Other veganizing ideas – please leave ‘em in the comments.
eve’s pockets
(because knowledge sustains)
for the pastry
Oh darlings, don’t be daunted by the idea of making pastry. It’s as easy as biscuits! If you haven’t made buttermilk biscuits yet, try it. Serve them with boxed soup. Good for breakfast with honey or maple syrup. But I am digressing into biscuits, and this is pastry pocket dough. The freezer is the tool of miracles for both.
- 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling
- 2/3 cup whole wheat flour
- 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- about ½ a cup of ice water (let some ice cubes melt into a bit of water as you begin cooking)
Right out of the refrigerator, cut the butter into cubes. Scatter the butter bits on a cookie sheet so they are not touching each other and stash them in the freezer for quarter of an hour.
Sift together the two types of flour with the salt and sugar. Feel free to sift twice. Sifting the dry ingredients adds air’n’fluff to baked treats and is especially important when you are vegan baking (obviously, these butter-filled pastries are far from vegan, but vegan muffin recipes are comin’).
Toss the frozen butter into the flour. Reach in with your hands and rub the bits of butter with the flour between your fingers. It’s sort of a press and slide motion, and I imagine making flat shingles of floured butter that overlap like scales on a fish to form the flakey layers in pastry. Most instructions I’ve read on pastry making say to cut the butter into the flour until it resembles course meal or other grainy sorts of descriptions, but it feels velvetier than that. Error on the side of less handling the first few times you try; over handling makes crusts and biscuits and the like tough.
Freeze the dough again, about another quarter of an hour.
With a wooden spoon, gently stir in enough ice water for the dough to hold together without getting sticky. Scant half a cup, but it will depend on the weather. Humidity and temperature affect the flour’s ability/need to absorb the liquid.
Flour your little paws and kneed the dough. Pat it together into a ball, press down, turn and press and turn and press, working it against the size of the bowl. Kneed long enough for it to come together, about 5 minutes if that. Then rip your dough ball in half, stick on half atop the other and press down. Do this a few times; you can visualize making the elongated layers that flake, flattening them on top of each other. Divide into two thick circles, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for about an hour.
This dough keeps well, and while it makes for “fancy” desserts, it is an awesome vehicle for a gazillion different leftovers. For example: black beans simmered with green pepper and onion with cheddar cheese cubes; white beans, spinach & ricotta; thick stews; thick chili.
for the filling
- one apple – tart for baking, not mealy; try heirloom varieties
(hint hint: Union Square green market is flush with apples right now) - ¼ cup dried sour cherries
- 2 tablespoons of chopped walnuts
- ¼ cup of sugar
- fresh ginger
- ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
- ½ teaspoon corn starch
- cup apple sauce
- 1 large egg, lightly beaten
- 1 teaspoon milk
pre-heat the oven to 400° and grease a baking sheet.
Peel your apple. Slice it in half, in quarters, then, on an angle, slice out the core with the seeds. Peel and mince about an inch of fresh ginger.
In a medium bowl, mix together apples, sour cherries, and walnuts with the ginger, nutmeg, corn starch, and sugar. I’ve been storing my sugar in this empty lemon, ginger, Echinacea juice jar, and evidently, I did not wash it very well because it’s lemon-ginger-Echinacea-y and delicious in this recipe. Stir in the apple sauce.
Roll out each circle of dough on a lightly floured surface. I don’t have a rolling pin; an empty juice bottle suffices. Roll it out thin – about an eighth of an inch. I roll into an elongated rectangle, following the shape of my cutting board. Trim the edges and slice into rectangles, about four for each circle of dough.
Divide the apple mixture among the cut-outs, leaving a 1-inch border. Fold over the pastries – into triangles if you cut your pastry into squares or into rectangles.
In a small bowl mix the beaten egg with a teaspoon of milk. Use a brush (or your finger or a spoon, but a clean kitchen-use only paint brush or pastry brush works best) to brush the egg mixture on the border of the pastry.
Fold each pastry, enclosing the filling, and crimp the edges with a fork. Brush the tops of the pastries with more of the egg wash. Make 2 or 3 small slashes in the top of the pastry to let the steam escape.
Bake for 20 minutes or until puffed and golden. Cool turnovers to warm before serving.
