pumpkin and white bean soup

pumpkin soup

from the Greens cookbook (1987) written by the chefs of the same-named restaurant in California to which I have never been.  So sad.

found the most beautiful Cinderella pumpkin at the Cortelyou Farmer’s market.  It would have made a wonderful carriage, green like patina on copper, frosty white in patches.  Not being a fairy godmother, I made a soup instead.  It was a hefty pumpkin, and I used half, approximately ¾ pound or 4-5 cups when cut in chunks.

halving a pumpkin and skinning it is not for the faint of heart—a serious knife should be employed for the purpose.  If you don’t yet have a beloved blade then ask a friend with kitchen wits and witchery (and a bit of cash flow) to get you a good Chef’s knife for your birthday.  A fine knife will make you more eager to cut up veggies and entices your foodie friends to cook in your kitchen.  Back to the pumpkin: plunge your knife tip into the skin near the stem, the bottom is usually the flattest part of the thing and should sit steadily on your cutting board but having a friend help you steady it is not a bad idea, and carefully bear down along the whole blade, towards the bottom of the pumpkin.  Pull out the blade and start again as often as you need.  Bit by bit is better than a dramatic cleaving and trip to the emergency room.  Repeat on the other side.

scoop the seeds and goop from the pumpkin halves.  if you want, reserve some of the seeds for toasted pumpkin seeds, and pile up at least some of the seeds and all of the pulp to use for the stock.  slice of the pumpkin skins and set aside for stock as well.  cut the pumpkin into slices about an inch wide then across to make large chunks.

wash one medium or two small leeks.  Slice off the greens and set aside.  Slice down the center of the leeks and across into thin half moon strips.  Smash and peel two or three cloves of garlic.  Scrub and chop a few carrots or parsnips (parsnips are really nice) and several ribs of celery.

in a large pot, heat a tablespoon of olive oil.  add the garlic and leek greens and stir to coat and cook a few moments.  stir in the celery.  add in the pumpkin pulp and seeds and a few stalks of parsley.  Salt and pepper the whole lot.  Pour in about six cups of water.  Bring to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes.  Turn off the heat and let cool a bit before draining, squeezing the rich broth from the veggies by pressing them in a colander over a bowl or pot.

in a soup pot, heat a few slugs of olive oil.  add the leeks and stir, cooking over a medium flame until they begin to soften.  toss in the pumpkin and carrots, stirring to coat.  Cook for about 9 minutes, stirring occasionally or often depending on how wide or narrow your pot is.  salt and pepper (white pepper if you have it) and stir in a handful of sage and/or thyme.  Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer.  Cook for about half an hour (sometimes longer) until the pumpkin begins to fall apart.  Stir it every once and awhile.

add a few cups of cooked white beans* and a cup or two of the bean cooking liquid and stir.  Cook for another 15 minutes or so, until the pumpkin is an orange velvet background to the beans.

top with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon or swirl in a spoonful of plain yoghurt, crème fraiche or sour cream.  Serve with piles of warm, excellent bread.

* to make the beans: pick through two cups of dried small white beans, like navy beans, and remove any bad beans or junk.  bring a pot of water to a boil, about three time the amount of beans.  turn off the heat and add the beans and let sit for an hour.   rinse the soaked beans in cold water, combine with fresh water in the pot, add in stalks of fresh or dried sage and thyme and bring to a boil.  cook for about an hour or al dente.  drain, saving some of the cooking liquid.

simple stuffed mini squash

• 3 baby acorn squash – you can use any squash, but we had these absurdly cute mini-acorn (acorn-like acorn) squash at the coop

• mushrooms – any and all sorts would be good

• fresh sage
• pine nuts – if you’ve got ‘em; try subbing pecan/walnut bits, maybe sunflower seeds
• millet
• olive oil
• sea salt
• pecorino cheese

 

heat a heavy skillet over a medium-high flame (for medium high on a gas stove – turn it up all the way then back a quarter turn; that’s about right). Toast (slightly browned; nutty smelling) 1 cup of millet. Dump into a sauce pan or pot with a lid, and add 1 ¾ cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for about 15 minutes. When the millet absorbs all the water, take it off the heat and fluff with a fork.

toast ½ cup of pine nuts too, and put them aside.

halve the squash and scrape out the seeds and pulp. Pour a little olive oil into the hollow of each of the squash, sprinkle a little sea salt and let them hang out soaking while the oven heats to 350. Turn them over onto a cookie sheet, slide them about to oil the sheet, and bake for 20 minutes to half an hour, until soft.

chop two generous handfuls of mushrooms (about a cup and a half chopped or more; more is tasty). I picked out the smallest crimini mushrooms I can find and just slice them thin, stem and all. If you select larger mushrooms, just pop of the stems, tossing them if they’re really woody or mincing them for the stuffing if they’re nice. In the skillet over medium heat, add about a tablespoon of olive oil. Sauté the mushrooms until soft.

 

shred a handful of fresh sage. Toss it with the cooked mushrooms along with a bit of sea salt. Shred enough pecorino to scatter on top of final assembly (three inches of a wedge ought to do it).

 

when the millet is fluffy, stir the mushrooms and pine nuts into the millet. Stuff your squash halves. Top with some cheese. Slide the whole shebang into the oven for quarter of an hour or until the cheese is melted.

Fancy Stuffed Squash

(from the Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen, 1977, 1999, 2000)

same process, but for the stuffing:

 

1 cup raw brown rice cooked with 1 ¾ cups water

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 ½ cups minced onion

1 to 2 tbs honey or brown sugar

2 medium cloves of garlic, minced

2 medium sized tart apples, diced

3 large navel oranges, sectioned

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon allspice or cloves

1 cup chopped almonds

 

Melt the butter in a skillet. Add the onion and sauté for about 5 minutes, or until translucent.

Add garlic, apples, oranges, and spices, and sauté over medium heat about 5 more minutes. The oranges may fall apart, but that’s ok.

Add the sauté to the rice and mix well. Season to taste with salt and honey or brown sugar.

Fill the pre-baked squash halves, and top with chopped nuts.

 

And dear, dear Mollie recommends serving with Orange-Ginger Sauce on page 90. Oh, yes:

 

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup of orange juice

2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

¼ cup of soy sauce

salt, pepper, and cayenne, to taste

 

Other Additions

½ tablespoon grated orange rind

1 to 2 tablespoons honey or dry sherry

1 scallion/green onion, finely minced

 

Place cornstarch in a small bowl (if you are using this for stir-fried vegetables) or in a small saucepan (if you’re using this for anything else).

Add orange juice, and whisk until the cornstarch dissolves. Stir in all remaining ingredients (including optional additions).

If you are using this sauce for stir-fried vegetables, stir from the bottom and add to the wok or skillet about midway through the cooking (see detailed instructions on the previous 2 pages). If you are using this for anything else, place the saucepan over medium heat, and gradually bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Lower heat to a simmer and cook, whisking frequently, until thick and glossy (3 to 5 minutes). Serve hot or warm.